Select student

Phoebe Ward

My graduate collection is inspired by individuals who are on the run, being pursued and who need to change their appearance surreptitiously. It was built around the nation of being able to walk into a building wearing a suit and walk out wearing a tracksuit – which would deceive and mislead anyone that was following you. I achieved this by designing multi-functioning garments that can either reverse into something else, elements of clothing that can be zipped off to reveal a different silhouette and using elastic drawstring with designs which can be adjusted and manipulated to alter the shape and structure of the garment. Secret pockets are hidden throughout the collection to further the theme of deception. My interest in performance-wear has allowed me to combine both sportswear and tailoring elements and techniques to facilitate a noticeable transformation in these outfits. My research into the special forces and ‘Ministry of Defence’ led me to incorporating curved paneling which reference the internal structure of the body to create interesting internal lines and shapes within garments. By using Bemis as a way of bonding fabrics I have managed to create hybrid materials that bridge the gap between sportswear and tailoring, for example power mesh on top of wool crepes. This layering of fabrics has in itself built more depth and texture into the garments.

Gloria Ogunyinka